Soil Preparation 101
Loosen the top 8–12 inches, work in 2–3 inches of compost, and test pH before you plant anything. Everything else in your garden depends on this step.
Free webinar, Oct 29: Putting Your Garden to Bed for Winter. Save your seat
Good gardens start with a few habits: knowing your soil, your light and your frost dates. These guides walk you through each one, from your first bed to your fifth season, written and tested by working horticulturists.
Mix about 3 parts browns to 1 part greens, keep the pile as damp as a wrung-out sponge, and turn it every 1–2 weeks.
A trowel, a hori-hori, bypass pruners, a stirrup hoe and a good hose nozzle cover most beginner jobs.
Most beds need about an inch of water a week. Water deeply at the base of plants, early in the day.
Soil, sun, water and zones. The four things every planting decision rests on.
Zones are 10°F bands of average winter lows. Knowing yours tells you which perennials will make it through winter.
Track a bed’s light for one full day. Six hours of direct sun counts as full sun; three to six is part shade.
Spread 2–3 inches of shredded bark or leaves, and keep it a hand’s width away from stems and trunks.
A home kit or lab test tells you whether to add lime or sulfur. Most plants grow best between pH 6.0 and 7.0.
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Identify the problem first, then reach for the gentlest fix that works.
Knock colonies off with a firm spray of water, then let ladybugs and lacewings finish the job.
Water in the morning, hand-pick at dusk, and use iron phosphate bait around tender seedlings.
White dust on leaves means humid nights and poor airflow. Space plants wider and remove affected foliage early.
Shake beetles into soapy water in the early morning, when they’re sluggish. Skip pheromone traps, which draw in more.
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Keep borders blooming from spring bulbs to fall asters.
Snip spent blooms just above the next set of leaves to keep annuals and repeat bloomers flowering into fall.
Lift crowded clumps every 3–4 years in spring or early fall, split them with a spade, and replant at the same depth.
Prune spring bloomers right after they flower and summer bloomers in late winter. Timing decides next year’s flowers.
Plant tulips and daffodils in fall, about three times as deep as the bulb is tall, pointy end up.
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From seed tray to harvest basket, with timing for your frost dates.
Sow 6–8 weeks before your last frost date, under grow lights kept 2–3 inches above the seedlings.
Plant deep, stake early and water evenly to prevent blossom-end rot. Each plant wants 8 hours of sun.
A 4×8-foot bed, 10–12 inches deep, lets you reach the middle from either side. Fill it with 60% topsoil and 40% compost.
Mediterranean herbs like full sun and lean, fast-draining soil. Harvest often to keep plants bushy.
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Light, water and humidity for houseplants that thrive, not just survive.
Move up only 1–2 inches in pot diameter, in spring, once roots circle the bottom or poke through the drainage holes.
ZZ plant, snake plant and pothos tolerate rooms several feet from a north-facing window.
Yellowing lower leaves and soggy soil mean roots are short on oxygen. Water only when the top inch is dry.
Calatheas and ferns like 50–60% humidity. Group plants together or run a humidifier instead of misting.
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The terms you'll see on seed packets, plant tags and in every guide here. Tap a term to read its meaning.
A plant that completes its whole life cycle in one growing season. Zinnias, marigolds, basil.
A plant that lives three or more years, often dying back to the roots in winter and regrowing in spring. Hostas, peonies.
A two-year cycle: leaves in the first year, flowers and seeds in the second. Foxglove, parsley.
USDA regions defined by average coldest winter temperature, in 10°F bands from zone 1 to 13, each split into “a” and “b” halves.
Six or more hours of direct sunlight a day. Most vegetables and many flowering perennials need it.
Three to six hours of direct sun a day, ideally in the morning when it is gentler.
Sheds its leaves each year, usually in fall. Maples, hydrangeas.
Keeps its foliage through the year. Boxwood, holly, pine.
Removing faded flowers so the plant puts energy into new blooms instead of seed.
Moving indoor-raised seedlings outdoors gradually over 7–10 days so they adjust to sun, wind and cooler nights.
A 2–3 inch layer of bark, straw or leaves on the soil surface that holds moisture and keeps weeds down.
The three numbers on a fertilizer label: percent nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A 10-10-10 bag is balanced.
Acidity on a 0–14 scale. Most garden plants prefer 6.0–7.0; blueberries want 4.5–5.5.
A cultivated variety selected for a trait, written in single quotes. Echinacea ‘White Swan’.
When a crop flowers early, usually from heat or long days, turning leaves bitter. Common in lettuce and cilantro.
Grouping plants that help each other, such as basil near tomatoes or marigolds among squash.
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One email every Thursday with what to plant, prune and protect this week, timed to your own climate zone.
The questions our editors hear most from first-season gardeners.
Plan around your average last frost date. Sow cool-season crops like peas and lettuce 2 to 4 weeks before it, and plant warm-season crops like tomatoes and squash once frost danger has passed and soil reaches about 60°F.
Enter your ZIP code into the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Zones are based on the average coldest winter temperature, in 10°F bands, so a zone 6 perennial should survive winters down to about −10°F.
Most beds need about 1 inch of water per week from rain or irrigation. Water deeply and less often, in the morning, and check that the top inch of soil is dry first.
Lettuce, radishes, bush beans, zucchini and cherry tomatoes are forgiving, fast and productive in most zones.